odo
With an already packed weekend on the books, we decided to add odo—a two-star Japanese kaiseki restaurant in New York City—to the mix. It was my first kaiseki experience in the U.S., and I was genuinely excited. I was joined by two friends, and the day was shaping up to be a culinary marathon, especially with Atomix on the horizon later that evening.
We visited for the lunch seating, which featured a six-course kaiseki menu priced at ($150). I opted for the ($80) sake pairing to accompany the meal, curious to see how the progression would be elevated through the selected pours. Upon arrival, we were welcomed into odo’s quaint, old-school bar area—intimate and understated, with a quiet elegance. I’ve heard their cocktails are excellent, and the space certainly set the tone. We were greeted warmly and escorted to the chef’s counter, where our place settings were pristine and every detail meticulously arranged. Watching the chefs at work behind the counter added a quiet sense of anticipation. The atmosphere struck a perfect balance between refined and relaxed—a promising start to the experience.
Much like my experience at Le Bernardin, we found ourselves immersed in conversation and simply enjoying one another’s company. Combined with a slight language barrier during the dish descriptions and the absence of a printed menu, it meant that many of the finer components escaped me. That said, I rated each course as I would at any other restaurant.
The meal began with a dish of uni, caviar, and tofu suspended in a dashi gelatin. While the components sounded promising on paper(?), the execution left much to be desired—particularly from a textural standpoint. The gelatinous base overwhelmed the dish, creating an almost slippery, muddled experience that lacked cohesion. The flavors were intriguing individually, but together they felt imbalanced. A curious, and frankly odd, way to start the meal. (6.4 /10)
The second course was a miso-based soup featuring seared tofu, enoki mushrooms, and scallions. It was… fine. A high-quality miso soup, no doubt—but that’s all it was. There was no real sense of balance or progression, and certainly no element of surprise. It felt more like a comforting interlude than a course deserving of a place in a high end kaiseki. I couldn’t help but wonder: why is this being served here? Where’s the technique, the refinement, the challenge? It left me wanting more—more complexity, more intention, more risk. (7.4 /10)
Next came a simple sashimi course—clean, elegant, and clearly rooted in quality. While I can’t recall the exact species of fish, it was a beautiful cut, likely chosen for its subtlety, and topped with a small spoon of roe. It leaned slightly non-traditional in presentation, but the flavors were clean and precise. The rice beneath was seasoned well, adding a gentle acidity that rounded out the bite. Not bad by any means—just straightforward and somewhat forgettable. (6.8 /10)
Finally—a dish with depth, flavor, and texture. A4 waygu, grilled and barbecued to meticulous perfection. It was tender, succulent, and absolutely divine—easily the standout bite of the meal thus far. The beef had that rich, buttery character you hope for, with a subtle smokiness that lingered beautifully. Unfortunately, the accompanying side—funky, fermented, and still unidentifiable in my memory—felt entirely out of place. It clashed with the elegance of the beef and threw off the balance of the dish. A near-perfect main, slightly weighed down by its supporting cast. (8.0 /10)
What followed was thinly sliced A4 waygu, served in a chilled broth with soba noodles. While the beef itself was undeniably high quality, the dish as a whole left me cold—literally and figuratively. The broth lacked depth, and the cold temperature muted the flavors rather than enhancing them. The soba added texture, but couldn’t carry the dish forward. A well-intentioned concept, but ultimately underwhelming. Not the strongest showing. (6.8 /10)
Dessert turned out to be the most enjoyable part of the meal. A soft serve ice cream was paired with a warm dough ball and, for the first time all afternoon, a distinct textural contrast—a crisp piece of what I believe was meringue. It was playful, balanced, and actually quite satisfying. The course was accompanied by a beautifully brewed warm black tea, which added a touch of ceremony and comfort to close the meal. (8.0 /10)
As for the overall experience—I came into odo genuinely excited. But what unfolded felt like a sea of slimy textures and underdeveloped ideas, with very few moments of clarity or refinement. Perhaps the dinner menu tells a different story, but based on this lunch, it was a letdown—especially for a two-star kaiseki. The technique was there, but the soul was missing.
odo
Visit WebsiteChef de Cuisine: Hiroki Odo
Location: NYC, New York
Date of Visit: 02.01.2025
Two Michelin Stars
