Atomix
I want to start by saying that I was feeling a bit under the weather when I dined at Atomix, so my mood might have been slightly off and may have influenced how I perceived some of the courses. Despite that, I arrived with high expectations—especially after having dined at Jungsik the night before and wanting to see what else NYC has to offer in the realm of Korean fine dining. Our reservation was for the later seating at 8:45 PM, and upon arrival, we entered what felt like an upscale apartment building. We waited briefly outside for the doors to open before being greeted enthusiastically and ushered into the bar area. There, we admired our surroundings—a sophisticated and meticulously designed space that checked every box for ambiance. (In my experience, perhaps only Ever in Chicago surpasses it in terms of sheer style.)
When it was our turn, we descended a dramatic staircase—a space with impressively high ceilings and eye-catching lighting—which led us to the chef’s counter below. The spectacle was breathtaking, and before taking our seats, we were presented with all of the fresh, vibrant, and often hard-to-find ingredients we’d be enjoying that night. Right from the start, I could tell Atomix’s sourcing was in a league of its own. After a welcome drink of two dashi varieties, each uniquely flavored with aged soy sauces, it became clear that the service here was going to be impeccable. Seated at the chef’s counter, eyes full of anticipation, I was ready for what promised to be an unforgettable night..
Atomix offers two seatings: the chef’s counter—where we dined—at ($395), and a more experimental bar seating at ($285). Securing a spot can be tricky, as reservations must be booked within minutes of becoming available. Once we were finally settled in, I was struck by how enigmatic and modern the space felt, yet also incredibly well thought out. Every detail, from the cutlery to the plates, spoke to the highest quality. In addition to the meticulous tableware, we were given beautifully designed cards for each dish, all commissioned from artists Atomix supports—a thoughtful touch. Because I was still feeling a bit under the weather, I opted for a non-alcoholic beverage: a rice milk punch that tasted like a magical blend of cereal milk and eggnog, complete with a cozy holiday vibe. It was, without a doubt, one of the most memorable N/A drinks I’ve ever had.
We started off with two snacks to kick off the evening. The first was a mussel paired with cheongguk jang, a combination that yielded a fascinating flavor interplay—though not exactly my favorite, I appreciated the thoughtfulness behind it. The second snack was a barbecued yukpo tartlet accented by jalapeño and cheddar cheese notes, which hit closer to my personal preferences and felt like a more immediate crowd-pleaser. (7.9 /10)
Before the first course officially arrived, we were invited to pick our weapons for the meal—chopsticks, of course. The selection was a lineup of beautifully crafted pairs, and I opted for a simple, understated black wooden set. When the first course came out, it featured thinly sliced striped jack accompanied by a jellyfish mix of yellow pepper, king crab, Korean mustard, sugar, and rice vinegar. This was paired with a cara orange gel, pine nut purée, and yellow pepper sauce.While all these elements played together well enough, I couldn’t help but wonder if there were perhaps too many components at work. Some flavors got lost in the mix, while others burst forth with an almost jarring acidity. Despite these imbalances, it was still a visually stunning dish showcasing the freshest produce and a lively interplay of acidity and subtle sweetness. (8.6 /10)
The next course was one I had anticipated the most, but unfortunately ended up being my biggest letdown of the night. It featured monkfish liver, black banana, and buckwheat with perilla leaf. The nino banana—aged and fermented—took on a bitterness that, at least for my palate, didn’t mesh well with the monkfish liver. The resulting flavor profile felt unbalanced, and I can’t say it was particularly enjoyable. It was a pass for me. (6.4 /10)
The following course featured a humble yet exquisitely tender langoustine, fermented in aji dulce and paired with a honeynut squash foam and black truffle gel. Although the langoustine itself was undeniably top-tier—one of the most beautifully sourced pieces I’ve encountered—the overall flavor profile fell a bit flat. The squash foam lacked the depth I was hoping for, and everything seemed just a bit too restrained. It felt like it needed one more element to really bring the dish to life. (8.1 /10)
Next up was the golden eye snapper (which we’d seen at the start of the evening), served in a yellow beetroot sauce with fermented habanada gel. The fish itself was cooked perfectly, with its crispy skin offering a nice textural contrast. However, I found the accompanying sauces a bit underwhelming, lacking the depth or brightness I’d hoped for. Still, the dish was fun and creative—especially with the ice plant garnish, which added a uniquely cool, almost tingling sensation when eaten alongside the fish. On the side, there was a cod milt and doenjang turnip tartlet, something I’ve rarely seen offered. Cod milt is, after all, the sperm sac of the fish—subtly flavored yet creamy. It was definitely one of the more unusual items I’ve ever tried, but I appreciated both its novelty and its delicate taste. (8.3 /10)
The next course showcased kohlrabi that had been slowly roasted using nuruk—a ferment made from rice—and salt. Accompanying it was a nuruk-based sauce made with heavy cream, butter, brown rice vinegar, and a touch of Yondu. The plate was further complemented by kale oil, a pistachio crumble, and shaved truffle on top. While undeniably creative, the flavors didn’t fully come together for me. Although I appreciated the innovative use of fermentation and the richness of the sauce, it still felt like it was missing that extra spark to tie everything together. (7.4 /10)
The next course featured the humble mackerel: perfectly cooked fish accompanied by a gochugaru sauce, black trumpet mushrooms, and mushroom oil. While the protein itself was faultless—fresh, flavorful, and beautifully cooked—the sauce didn’t quite leave a lasting impression. I noticed a pattern emerging: the main ingredients were consistently top-notch, yet the sauces often felt understated, lacking that distinct wow factor.
On the side, a sea cucumber rice with roasted dashima proved to be a standout. Its savory richness and layered textures drew me in more than the primary dish, and I found myself wishing that same spark carried through to the mackerel’s sauce. (8.0 /10)
Finally, we arrived at the last savory course, which I felt was executed to near perfection. This featured California-sourced squab paired with a delectable cheongju sauce—savory, slightly acidic, and a touch sweet, hitting that ideal balance. However, what really stood out was the accompanying dish: a confit squab leg served in a cheongju-infused kalguksu with freshwater eel. While I’m not entirely convinced the eel was necessary, the overall dish was brimming with bold, memorable flavors—the kind I’d been hoping for throughout the meal. Hands down, it was the highlight of the evening. (9.7 /10)
The meal concluded with a sujeonggwa custard tart featuring a persimmon gel center and almond crumble. It came topped with shaved truffle, which unfortunately disrupted the otherwise near-perfect harmony of the dish. Without the truffle, the dessert would have stood as a beautifully balanced homage to traditional Korean flavors, showcasing the sweet warmth of sujeonggwa in custard form. (7.9 /10)
Atomix’s menu changes so often that on any given visit, you might experience dishes that truly captivate or, alternatively, leave you feeling disappointed. While my overall impression may have been colored by coming down with an illness, I don’t believe my actual sense of taste was affected. This restaurant offers an abundance of creative techniques and innovative flavor combinations, but sometimes they felt needlessly complex. Personally, I’m a firm believer that simpler is often better—allowing top-quality ingredients to truly shine. Nonetheless, the evening still offered its pleasures: the non-alcoholic beverages were fantastic, and the service and ambiance were undeniably stellar. Still, it felt like a mismatch—a 1-star level of cooking propped up by a 3-star level of service and setting. If you catch Atomix on a night when their ambitious approach fully aligns, however, you might just be in for a remarkable meal.
Atomix
Visit WebsiteChef de Cuisine: Junghyun "JP" Park
Location: NYC, New York
Date of Visit: 02.01.2025
Two Michelin Stars
