After a day immersed in the history of Champagne, tasting some truly amazing vintages at renowned houses like Ruinart and Taittinger, I returned to the heart of Reims, where my hotel offered a view that rivaled even the finest wines. Overlooking the magnificent Cathedral of Notre-Dame, its beauty transformed with the light of day, my favorite moments were spent each morning with an espresso in hand. Yet, while the charm of Reims is undeniable, my journey took me just beyond its borders to Tinqueux, where L’Assiette Champenoise awaits—a beacon of culinary excellence in the Champagne region. A relatively recent addition to France’s esteemed collection of three-Michelin-starred restaurants, this Relais & Châteaux gem is helmed by Arnaud Lallement, whose vision seamlessly marries local heritage with gastronomic innovation.

Securing a reservation at L’Assiette Champenoise was one of the easiest experiences I’ve had for a three-star restaurant—especially as a solo diner. I arrived promptly at half past seven, where an impressive trio of staff greeted me with impeccable coordination: one opened the cab door, another the entrance, and a welcoming chorus of bonjours accompanied me inside. Friendly smiles beamed in my direction, setting a warm and promising tone for the evening. It was clear that attention to detail extended beyond the plate; the hospitality alone hinted at a special night ahead.

I was promptly ushered into an anteroom and presented with both the drinks and wine list. Here, the experience faltered slightly. The wine list was digital—a choice that struck me as kitschy and at odds with the elegance of the setting. That said, my spirits lifted when I noticed the stellar lineup of Champagnes by the glass. I gravitated toward the Krug 169ème Édition (65 €/glass), the oldest offering on the by the glass menu, an indulgent start to the evening that felt entirely appropriate. With a glass in hand, a particular song came to mind, perfectly capturing my mood: Laissez-moi danser. Fun fact: L'Assiette Champenoise was the first restaurant to partner with Krug, creating a pairing of world-class cuisine and one of the finest Champagnes.

Next, I was presented with three menu options: Emotion (395 €), Saveur (295 €), and the Black Truffle from Perigold Menu (495 €). The latter came with a flourish—the truffles themselves were brought out, their intense aroma permeating the anteroom. The pungent yet delightful scent lingered for 5+ minutes, I thought to myself that perhaps such an environment was not ideal for tasting such high quality of wines. Still, the sensory experience was lovely. I chose the Emotion menu, accompanied by the Champagne wine pairing at (235 €).

Before transitioning to the main dining room, the amuse-bouches arrived. While beautifully presented, I found them less than inspiring. A cheese puff ball, a foie gras bite (a standout red square that was easily the best of the lot), and several others I did not write notes for as I found them perfectly okay. (7.6)

I was then asked if I was ready to begin my culinary experience and was escorted to the dining room. The lighting, the atmosphere—everything felt cohesive. However, as a solo diner, you tend to notice details you might otherwise overlook, like cords on the floor or odd layout choices. Even so, the dining room was breathtaking, and I absolutely loved it.

As with all of my reviews, I’ll comment on the bread, the butter, and any accompaniments to the bread service if provided. A jovial man arrived at my table, carrying an impressively large loaf of bread, nearly a meter in length. Caught up in the moment, I didn’t stop to take photos. Alongside the bread, I was presented with three butters: unsalted, salted, and smoked, all sourced from Normandy. My personal favorite was the salted butter, which perfectly complemented the bread—a highlight of the evening with its beautifully crisp crust, perfect crumb, and fluffy interior. (9.0)

The first course was, unfortunately, one of the most disappointing dishes I’ve had at a three-star establishment—though nowhere near the level of the infamous disaster at Ever earlier this year. The dish was a take on beet tartare, featuring a tomato and beet reduction, topped with a caraway leaf. The overall execution felt extremely one-note, lacking the balance I expect at this level. While I appreciate the seasonal focus of the menu, this dish fell short. Perhaps it would have been better served as a palate cleanser later in the meal. A missed opportunity. (7.2)

This dish was paired with a Champagne Ponsart “La DS” 2019 Meunier, though it was brought to me well before the dish arrived. The staff mentioned that this Champagne would be paired with the first two courses, and they ensured my glass was amply refilled throughout the two dishes without me needing to ask—a level of attentiveness that persisted for the entire meal.

The next course was a welcome surprise: a scallop dish prepared three ways, showcasing the finest from Normandy. The centerpiece was a perfectly cooked scallop served with a beautifully rich sauce that was so flavorful I couldn’t resist using my bread to soak up every last drop. The pairing with cabbage was unexpected yet worked remarkably well, creating a wonderful balance.

The second component was a scallop tartare. While it had a pleasant balance of flavors, it didn’t quite stand out compared to the other elements. The final preparation was one of the most unique dishes of the night—a scallop soup with an intense, almost consommé-like depth of flavor. It was so bold that I found I couldn't take more than small bites at a time. At the bottom of the soup were tiny bursts of umami (I made a note to ask the waiter about this component but unfortunately forgot to follow up). My best guess is that it consisted of finely chopped and sautéed oysters or mussels in butter. Overall, a delightful course. (8.4)

The next dish was a sea urchin creation, elegantly presented in its shell and topped with an iodized cream. The texture and creaminess of the sea urchin were as delightful as always, delivering a comforting richness. However, while it was a good dish overall, it lacked the element of surprise or innovation to truly wow me. A solid dish, but not a standout of the evening. (8.0)

Paired with Champagne Hathyr 2012.

This is exactly the kind of dish that reminds me why I visit restaurants of this caliber. My notes summed it up best: “A delicate dish topped with Kaviari caviar, a silky smooth potato emulsion, three circular crisps, and a haddock gelée—a fantastic combination. No wonder this is one of the classics that has remained on the menu for years.” Simply put, it was outstanding. (9.0)

The dish was paired with Champagne Krug Grande Cuvée 172ème Édition—what more could you ask for? That said, I did note some inconsistencies in the presentation and portion sizes. It didn’t match the meticulous beauty I’ve seen from others, which I suspect may be due to visiting on a random Tuesday night in December. This lapse in quality control was also apparent in the main lobster course, which I’ll address later.

In homage to my father

Another long-standing staple on the menu, this dish features Brittany blue lobster prepared as an homage to the late Jean-Pierre, dating back to 1978. The lobster was cooked to perfection, served in a beautifully rich and flavorful sauce—a traditional preparation that pays tribute to its origins.

However, I couldn’t help but feel disappointed by the presentation. The portion of lobster I received felt skimpy compared to what I’ve seen others served, and the plating lacked the finesse I’d expect from one of the restaurant’s signature dishes. It felt hastily put together, which is disappointing for a dish with such a storied reputation. Despite these issues, it was a solid, if somewhat unremarkable, traditional offering. (8.2)

Paired with Ctx Champenois blc Vigne de Mizy Dehours 2019.

A far superior offering from Brittany, in my opinion. This dish featured a breaded confit pollack paired with a shiso leaf confit and a sauce that was undoubtedly the best of the night. One detail worth mentioning is the thoughtful service: for each dish, they provided extra sauce to pour and adjust as desired, along with copious amounts of bread—perfect for soaking up every last drop. (9.0)

The pairing was equally delightful: Ctx Champenois Blanc “Vigne de Mizy” Dehours 2019.

Another standout dish was a perfectly cooked hen with delectably crisp and flavorful skin. The sauces and the tartlet accompanying the dish added depth and balance, making it a satisfying way to close the savory portion of the meal. That said, I couldn’t help but wish for something more adventurous. Given that it’s December, options like venison, lièvre à la royale, or sweetbreads would have showcased a greater level of creativity and seasonal inspiration. Still, it was an excellent dish. (8.85)

Paired with one of the more interesting wines of the night, a red from the Champagne region: Bereche & Fils Ctx Champenois rouge 2022 Montées.

The cheese course was an absolute delight, featuring an exceptional selection from the renowned Philippe Olivier. Every cheese was sublime, and the accompanying jams and honey from the restaurant’s garden elevated the experience into something truly special. Admittedly, I went overboard, asking for far too many cheeses, but the trolley man was more than happy to oblige.

This course was paired with the same red wine served with the previous dish. By this point, the sommelier was visibly flustered from the demands of service, which led to a humorous moment as he stumbled over his words repeatedly. We shared a laugh about it, and the exchange brought a smile to my face. The cheese trolley itself was one of the best I’ve ever encountered, with the morbier standing out as my personal favorite. (9.0)

The final dish of the night unfortunately ended things on a lackluster note. After such an enjoyable evening, the dessert felt like a letdown—a missed opportunity to leave a lasting impression. It was one of my least favorite desserts in recent memory. While I acknowledge my personal bias toward citrus-based desserts, this one missed the mark on several levels. The balance was off, there was a noticeable lack of sweetness, and the overall execution fell short. I believe Schalles Baches is a brand/region/type of lemon preserve, but it failed to elevate the dish. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t good either. (6.9) Next, please.

PETIT Fours / My Closing Thoughts

As the night came to a close, I was presented with petit fours alongside a stunning tea cart featuring an extensive selection of teas. I chose the Earl Grey, though I found it odd that there was an additional charge for something so small, especially when it’s brought out on a cart. The petit fours were beautifully presented, but aside from the standout coffee cake, they largely fell flat. (7.8)

Now, for some general reflections on my experience at L’Assiette Champenoise. It was, overall, a truly wonderful evening, and I would happily return. However, I do hope they consider replacing the beet tartare and dessert courses with dishes that better reflect the level of excellence this restaurant is known for.

One standout moment from the night was my interaction with Brice Lallement, Arnaud Lallement’s son. Brice was a breath of fresh air in the world of fine dining. As a solo diner, I had the unique opportunity to speak with him for nearly an hour over two separate occasions. His passion for the industry was evident in the thoughtful and articulate way he spoke about it, and his genuine engagement made the experience all the more memorable.

That said, there was one instance I found particularly bizarre. Around half past eleven, while enjoying my petit fours and tea amidst the lively dining room, I was abruptly whisked away back to the anteroom. My table was reset there with the petit fours and tea, but the shift in atmosphere was jarring. Suddenly, it was just me and a lone staff member preparing cocktails and serving Champagne. We exchanged a few awkward glances, and the level of service noticeably dropped off at this point. If not for Brice’s return to engage me in conversation, the ending to the meal might have felt much more disappointing.

Despite these minor hiccups, it was a delightful experience overall. I would recommend L’Assiette Champenoise to anyone visiting the Champagne region, though I’d advise considering the season, as I suspect the quality of the experience may fluctuate.