Cocina Hermanos Torres
The prior night, I had the pleasure of dining at El Celler De Can Roca, where I indulged in an feast of food and wine. Initially, I had no plans to visit Cocina Hermanos Torres the following evening back in Barcelona. My appetite seemed sated, and I anticipated a quiet night.
However, around 18:00, I received an unexpected call offering me a reservation as a solo diner in the main dining room. At the time of the call, I was having a light meal at Paco Meralgo (highly recommend), a bustling tapas spot located conveniently near my hotel. The allure of an impromptu opportunity to experience one of Barcelona’s finest culinary establishments was too enticing to resist.
I quickly returned to my hotel, exchanged casual attire for a suit, and set out for the restaurant. As I neared my destination, an air of anticipation began to build, hinting at the promise of an evening defined by culinary ingenuity and artistry.
I arrived 15 minutes before my reservation, finding myself just behind a larger group. After checking in, I was promptly escorted past a curtain and into the dining room within 30 seconds, without much explanation. What awaited me was a breathtaking transformation: a vast warehouse turned restaurant, with the kitchen at its heart. This centerpiece of transparency was nothing short of awe-inspiring.
Dining solo can sometimes feel a tad boring, but in a space like this, the craftsmanship on display keeps you captivated. Watching the chefs create such art made time seem irrelevant. During the evening, I had the pleasure of meeting Sergio Torres himself, whose warm demeanor and genuine happiness to have me there added a personal touch to the experience. Excitement built as I anticipated what lay ahead. The menu is straightforward, offering a single option priced at (310 €), accompanied by two wine pairing choices at (195 €) and (395 €). I opted for the base pairing, as I typically choose pairings in regions where my familiarity is limited.
My evening began with an intense consommé—‘Escudella’ and ‘Carn d’Olla,’ accompanied by a Panot de Galet. The crisp, shaped like Barcelona's iconic panot tiles originally designed by Antoni Gaudí, was a beautiful nod to the city’s heritage and elevated the presentation of the dish. (8.5 /10)
Next came a trio of appetizers, each a delightful prelude to the courses ahead. The first was Pa amb tomàquet with Iberian ham from FISAN—a lovely homage to the local cuisine (8 /10). This was followed by a smoked anchovy bonbon, an intriguing bite (8 /10). Finally, a crispy chicken skin topped with sea urchin and seaweed stole the show, the combination of textures and briny richness making it my favorite of the three. (9 /10)
The first course was cured squid served with a poultry consommé and topped with caviar. The squid was diced to achieve a texture akin to an al dente noodle, allowing it to meld seamlessly with the saltiness of the caviar and the depth of the consommé. A brilliant take on ‘surf and turf’, the dish was nothing short of amazing. (9.4 /10)
It was paired with the Armenaz 2021 (Jacquère), a Vin de Savoie from Domaine des Côtes Rousses, which complemented the dish beautifully with its crisp, mineral-driven profile.
The bread course followed, featuring a loaf of good quality but with a crust that was overly crisp, creating a mess that detracted from the experience as I ignored it the rest of the evening. However, the olive oil served alongside was a highlight—rich with a peppery kick that elevated the bread. (7 /10)
The next dish was a indulgence of what I had longed for the previous evening: a luscious, profoundly rich crab sauce that felt decadent. Crowned with king crab, white shrimp, wild mussels, radish, and a delicate heat from chiles, it was a symphony of sea and spice. The depth of the sauce tied the dish together masterfully, rendering it a true celebration of seafood craftsmanship. (8.7 /10)
It was paired with the MA Dona Blanca 2022 (Dona Blanca), a D.O. Bierzo from Andrea Mufatto, whose minerality and subtle fruit notes provided a perfect balance to the dish's richness and spice.
Now we entered the realm of creative artistry with a dish that was almost too beautiful to eat. Twenty-four vegetables adorned the plate alongside a broth of exceptional intensity, plated with truffles and dollops of mushroom. The broth itself was flawless—succulent, bold, and deeply satisfying. While the truffles added a welcome touch of luxury, the vegetables felt misplaced, detracting from the dish’s coherence and visual impact. The crisp supporting the truffle also fell short, leaving an otherwise ambitious presentation lacking in execution. (8.1 /10)
This dish was paired with a Viña Gravonia 2016 (Viura), a D.O.Ca Rioja from López Heredia.
Maresme green peas—known for their delicate sweetness and limited growing season—paired with Iberian ham and 'migas de pastor' was the next course. This dish was one I had hoped to be served this night, and the moment it arrived, a smile spread across my face. It’s astonishing how such simple ingredients can come together to create something so extraordinary. Perfection. (10 /10)
Paired with a UBE Miraflores Alta 2023 (Palomino Fino), a Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Ramiro Ibáñez.
Tonight I was treated white truffles from Piedmont. Offered as an optional supplement for (45 €), the dish featured a rich truffle cheese sauce with homemade pasta, topped with 1g of freshly shaved truffles. This kind of simple yet elevated cooking is precisely why I adore these restaurants. My mouth waters at the memory of its perfection. (9.3 /10)
It was paired with a 2020 Barolo, Del Comune Di Serralunga D'Alba, Giovanni Rosso.
I had been eating a lot of ray fish, skate wing, and similar dishes on this trip, but to my surprise, this course stood apart. A perfectly cooked fish was accompanied by piquillo peppers, mangetours, and pickled 'piparras,' bringing an end to the seafood offerings for the evening. (8.2 /10)
It was paired with a O Esteiro 2022 (Caino Tinto), D.O. Rías Baixas. Albamar. My personal favorite of the evening.
A perfectly cooked aged duck was presented next, accompanied by a duck jus, green mojo sauce, flowers, and herbs. The duck itself was exquisite, showcasing a perfect cook. However, the accompaniments detracted from the dish’s potential, echoing similar missteps I’ve observed at Core, where less can indeed be more. A simpler presentation would have allowed the duck to command the spotlight. (8.4 /10)
I should note here that I had a small fumble with one of the sommeliers in training during this course, which I will elaborate on in my closing thoughts.
This dish was paired with Els Escurçons 2021 (Garnacha), D.O.Ca Priorat. Mas Martinet Viticultors.
Now it was time for some sweetness, with a dish aptly named ‘Childhood Memories’. It transported me back to visits to the local ice cream shop, indulging in a lemon sorbet. Here, the combination of pear, cardamom, and tangerine created a harmonious balance of acidity and sweetness. One of the most delightful palate cleansers I have ever experienced. (8.5 /10)
Another dish I was hoping to see tonight: the shiso leaf dessert. With notes of citrus and green tea, supported by a supple base of yogurt, this dish was as intriguing as it was satisfying. Every element played its role beautifully, combining to create a single, delightful impression. One word to describe it: powerful. (9.6 /10)
It was paired with a Rheingau 2005 (Riesling), Georg Breuer. Rheingau, Alemania. Another highlight of the evening.
The last of the desserts: The Cocoa Age followed, a dessert that faced the daunting task of succeeding the previous highlights. This dish showcased a brilliant medley of chocolate elements, from thin, elegant shavings to a luscious mousse and a silky ice cream. The interplay of sweetness and acidity was captivating, but it lacked a balancing element—perhaps a hint of vanilla ice cream could have softened the sharper notes and provided a more rounded finish. (8.3 /10)
It was paired with a Don PX 1993 (Pedro Ximénez), D.O. Montilla-Moriles. Bodegas Toro Albalá.
The petit fours offered a lovely conclusion to the evening, with the first being presented in a "crown jewel" box that made the reveal as delightful as the flavor itself. Each treat was a small marvel, though some leaned a touch one-note. The citrus orange flower stood out as one of my favorites, with its bright, zesty notes providing a refreshing pop. Other highlights included the rosemary ice cream sandwich, with its unique herbal twist, and the Catalan cream. The black sesame ice pearl, while Sergio's Cara crakine and Javier's yogurt and almond creations were equally memorable. Despite feeling quite full, I powered through, savoring each piece as a fitting finale to an extraordinary meal. (8.9 /10)
Cocina Hermanos Torres is a remarkable experience that I would urge anyone to try at least once. The artistry and attention to detail displayed throughout the evening were extraordinary. However, I did feel somewhat disconnected from the majority of the staff, which I attribute in part to my limited Spanish. This lack of warmth contrasted with the hospitality I have encountered at other three-stars in Spain.
One notable hiccup occurred with a sommelier in training. During one course, two glasses of wine were still on my table: one nearly full and one a quarter full. Unfortunately, a different server cleared the quarter-full glass—which was intended for the upcoming dish—without confirming I was finished. When I brought this to the attention of the sommelier responsible for my table, she argued with me, leaving me with the previous course's wine and a sense of confusion. While this was a minor misstep, it left a bad taste in my mouth.
Besides this, the evening was a triumph. Watching the precision of the chefs at work, down to details like the three Michelin stars embossed on the backs of their sneakers and the sharply pressed navy suits, was a joy. Cocina Hermanos Torres delivered an unforgettable journey through gastronomy, and I look forward to returning someday.
Cocina Hermanos Torres
Visit WebsiteChef de Cuisine: Javier Torres, Sergio Torres
Location: Barcelona, Spain
Date of Visit: 12.13.2024