Ever
Heading into an impromptu weekend in Chicago, I had my sights set on dining at either Smyth or Oriole. By Friday night, with no reservations to be found, hope was starting to dwindle. I casually mentioned to my girlfriend that Ever had a sister bar, After, so we decided to stop in for a drink. While I stepped away to the toilette, the front of house appeared at our table—seemingly out of nowhere—and surprised her with a last-minute reservation. I couldn’t have been more thrilled.
After, I should mention, is one of my favorite bars of all time. Located next door to Ever, it’s moody, intimate, and sharply curated. The cocktails and wine list are thoughtful, the service is pristine, and the space feels like it belongs to another world entirely.
I was anticipating perfection, especially after seeing the restaurant’s cinematic portrayal in The Bear. The dining room had already captivated me on screen, but experiencing it in person was another level entirely. You enter through a dramatic stone hallway with music pulsing overhead, then step into a space where everything falls quiet. The transition is striking, and the ambiance is sublime. Service was flawless from start to finish; every person—from the servers and sommeliers to the chefs—felt fully invested, warm, and intentional. A kitchen tour later in the evening revealed an astonishing sense of calm and rhythm, with the expo leading the team like clockwork. Even the restroom had its own charm, playing Greenlights by Matthew McConaughey as an audiobook. I couldn't help but grin. And somehow, as we shared our drink preferences with our server, two others seemed to appear from nowhere, instantly filling our glasses with the exact water we’d mentioned. It was hospitality at a very rare level.
The opening course set the tone with a beautiful interplay of flavors. A oscietra caviar brioche dish served alongside huckleberry and lemon balm offered a sweet-tart brightness that paired wonderfully with the saltiness of the caviar and the crunch of petite, potato-like chips. It was balanced and thoughtfully constructed. My only critique was the texture of the brioche itself—it leaned too doughy, almost underdeveloped—but in terms of flavor, it was still a standout. A playful, confident start to the meal. (8.5 /10)
Paired with: NV Charles Le Bel Inspiration 1818 Champagne
Next was a delicata squash dish, paired with oats, kumquat, and oxalis. Visually, it was beautifully composed—elegant and inviting. But something felt off once we began tasting. The sweetness of the delicata was quickly overtaken by the sharp acidity of the kumquat, which clashed rather than complemented. The oats added an earthy texture, but instead of grounding the dish, they felt lost in the imbalance. A gentler, more rounded note—perhaps a berry like blueberry—might have created a better counterpoint to the acid. As it stood, the dish lacked harmony, and the elements never quite came together. (7.8 /10)
Paired with: 2021 Au Bon Climat “Hildegard” Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Aligoté, Santa Maria Valley
Coconut curry, lime, and kaffir framed one of the most flavorful dishes of the night—an intensely aromatic curry that was both bold and comforting. Delicate, razor-thin slices of chicken quite literally melted in my mouth, while buck millet added a subtle, nutty texture beneath it all. The standout, however, was the crispy chicken skin: golden, savory, and crackling—I only wish there had been more. Coriander blooms were scattered delicately on top, adding a soft herbal note without overwhelming the dish. Altogether, it was beautifully executed and texturally layered—a clear high point in the savory progression. (9.4 /10)
Paired with: Ossian - 'Quintaluna' Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y Leon 2019
Hiramasa with mandarin, mustard, and fennel was, without question, the highlight of the night. The fish was cooked with absolute precision—tender and flaky on the inside, with a beautifully crusted exterior that offered just the right amount of contrast. The pairing of mustard and fennel was elegant and restrained, enhancing the richness of the fish without overpowering it. The mandarin added a soft, citrusy lift that brought everything into balance. Nearing perfection. (9.1 /10)
Paired with: 2023 Domaine Bunan Moulin des Costes Rosé, Bandol
Maitake with watermelon, kombu, and nasturtium arrived in a whimsical, face-shaped bowl—playful and full of promise. Unfortunately, the dish didn’t live up to its presentation. The maitake was undercooked and tough, with an overpowering earthiness that clashed awkwardly with the sweetness of the watermelon and the salinity of the kombu. The flavors never found a common thread, leaving the dish feeling muddled and directionless. It was, frankly, difficult to finish—easily the weakest dish of the evening and one of the more puzzling I’ve encountered in recent memory. I’m still not quite sure what the intent was here. (5.4 /10)
Paired with: 2016 Marotti Campi Castelli Di Jesi Verdicchio Riserva Classico
Potato with Picholine olive, vanilla, mushroom leaf, and olive was another polarizing course. The flavors were bold—unapologetically so—but the combination of vanilla and olive never found common ground. The dish walked a fine line between creative and disjointed, and for me, it ultimately leaned toward the latter. Despite its intention, it felt more conceptual than pleasurable—a miss in an otherwise ambitious menu. (6.7 /10)
Paired with: 2022 Bruma ‘Plan B’ Grenache Blend, Valle de Guadalupe
The A-5 Miyazaki course, served with a red wine reduction, pistachio, and hyssop, was a refined and flavorful finale to the savory portion of the meal. Though modest in portion, the execution was impeccable—the richness of the beef paired beautifully with the deep, glossy red wine sauce. A clever accompanying bite of braised beef, nestled in a crisp canoe-shaped shell and presented on driftwood, added a layer of drama and texture that elevated the overall experience. That said, in hindsight, I’m not entirely convinced that the pistachio or green apple components complemented the dish—they felt slightly disconnected from the core flavors. Still, as a final savory note, it was memorable and deeply satisfying. (8.2 /10)
Paired with: 2021 Luis Seabra ‘Xisto Ilimitado’ Tinta Franca Blend, Douro
Banana, hibiscus, passion fruit, and hoja santa came together in one of the most memorable desserts I’ve ever had. The gummy rice offered a beautifully unexpected texture—chewy yet delicate—while the passion fruit and hibiscus brought bright, tropical acidity that was perfectly balanced. A thin, sweet disc on top added an ideal crunch, tying the entire composition together. It was playful, original, and deeply satisfying—easily one of my favorite desserts of all time. (10.0 /10)
Paired with: 2013 Disznókő Tokaji Aszú – 5 Puttonyos
Blueberry, olive oil, sweet cream, and verbena came together in a more traditional finale—a classic olive oil cake paired with blueberry accents and a generous dollop of sweet cream. What elevated the dish was the addition of dehydrated blueberries, which brought a welcome crunch and a concentrated burst of flavor. It’s a small detail, but one that made a big difference—more restaurants should consider using this technique to bring contrast and texture to otherwise soft desserts. A grounded, comforting way to close the meal. (9.1 /10)
For petit fours, we were offered a choice between a raspberry or piña colada popsicle—a playful, kitschy twist on tradition. While fun in concept, it leaned a bit too tart and lacked the sweetness or depth typically expected to close a meal. (6.8 /10)
The night as a whole was absolutely delightful. From the flawless service to the behind-the-scenes tour through the prep kitchen, back rooms, and main kitchen, every detail felt intentional. I’m not sure if it was all part of a well-rehearsed dance, but the kitchen was shockingly quiet—meticulous, calm, and almost meditative to observe. It was lovely to behold. While a few dishes missed the mark, the highs were spectacular, and the experience as a whole felt cohesive and carefully orchestrated. If they refine the weaker moments, this could easily become one of the most unforgettable dining experiences in the country. Magical.
Ever
Visit WebsiteChef de Cuisine: Curtis Duffy
Location: Chicago, Illinois
Date of Visit: 11.09.2024
Two Michelin Stars
